Red lights at the end of a dark laneway. I heard that equals a good time.
@milquetoastwinebar has been on the radar for a while, but I finally managed a visit and landed prime seats in front of the main act. No bookings, just luck and timing. The kitchen is the size of a powder room yet what comes out of it could rival a full-scale operation with all the bells and whistles. Chefs in quiet flow. Controlled chaos. My kind of theatre.
We opened with the sorrel crème fraîche and salmon caviar dip with crisps. Soft, lactic twang from the sorrel, then those little caviar pops.
Then came the chip butty with curried butter and curry aioli. I don’t usually credit the English for culinary finesse, but this was a bit epic. Pillowy bread. Golden chips. Properly indulgent, properly done.
Zucchini with black garlic and ajo blanco was a quiet flex. Black garlic is a cheat code for me, and they used it with restraint. Sweet depth, nutty garlic umami, that chilled almond note from the ajo blanco. Fresh, clever, balanced.
The dry-aged Aylesbury duck with quince ketchup arrived like a signature. Skin lacquered. Meat tender and rested. It took me back to Billy’s in the best way. Almost feels like a dish they’ve tinkered with for years and now just… nailed.
Braised leeks with fromage blanc and hazelnut were comfort disguised as a side. Silky, almost spoonable leeks, then the hazelnut crunch to keep it interesting. Cream, nut, sweet all in step.
Service is unfussy and warm, the pour on the wine generous and well judged. Had a quick chat with owner @horsfallj, and we found common ground in our affection for Anthony Bourdain. You can feel that spirit in the room: curious, honest, a little bit punk.
I’ll be back, happily.