I’ve been to @agnes.restaurant by @anyday.hospitality a few times over the last few years and it has never missed. Named Gourmet Traveller Restaurant of the Year in 2023, expectations were high again, and once more, it delivered.
The setting is cool. Dark, cosy, big shared tables that feel communal. And then there’s that smell. Wood fire everywhere. No electricity. No gas. Just open flame, wood and smoke. You feel it before you taste it.
We kicked off with snacks, which often say a lot about a kitchen. Agnes starts strong.
The sourdough crumpet with yellowfin tuna, crème fraîche and caviar was beautiful. Clean, rich, very satisfying. The grilled pork and prawn betel leaf with prawn emulsion and arabushi was probably my favourite of the snacks. Punchy, savoury, and properly moreish.
Panisse with black garlic, olive, rosemary and comté was excellent. You know me, anything involving black garlic already has my attention. The smoked ox tongue with malted miso hollandaise and soured white onion wasn’t for me. The sauce just didn’t land on my palate, but I appreciated the intent.
The eggplant with baby ganoush was lovely. Comforting, smoky, and exactly the kind of dip I gravitate towards wherever I am.
From there, things really opened up.
The charred hispi cabbage with calamansi vinegar, almond and tarragon was outstanding. Bright acidity, nuttiness, herbs working together very well. The wood roasted duck with muscat grapes, burnt honey and bitter leaves was a highlight. Deep flavour and beautifully balanced.
The 6+ wagyu sirloin with sweet garlic and pickled walnut was unreal. Rich and perfectly cooked. The Roast King Edward potatoes with onion cream and sesame praline was… look… Sasenka loves carbs.
Service was polished but relaxed. Everything moved at a good pace, and the team clearly knew the food and the fire.
Agnes continues to do what it does best. A place I keep coming back to, and will happily keep doing so.